LiFePO4 Battery Voltage Charts (12V, 24V & 48V)

Here are LiFePO4 battery voltage charts showing state of charge based on voltage for 12V, 24V and 48V batteries — as well as 3.2V LiFePO4 cells.

Note: These charts are all for a single battery at 0A. Consult the manual of your LFP battery for its specific discharge curve and voltage parameters.

12V LiFePO4 Battery Voltage Chart

14.6V100% (charging)
13.6V100% (resting)

Here’s a printable version of the above chart:

And here it is graphed out:

12V 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries are currently some of the most popular for off-grid solar power systems. They’re a drop-in replacement for 12V lead acid batteries, and a great upgrade.

They are fully charged at 14.6 volts and fully discharged at 10 volts. They are made by connecting four 3.2V LiFePO4 cells in series.

24V LiFePO4 Battery Voltage Chart

29.2V100% (charging)
27.2V100% (resting)

Here’s a printable version of the above chart:

And here it is graphed out:

24V lithium iron phosphate batteries are another popular option for solar power projects. You can either buy an off-the-shelf 24V battery or pick up two 12V batteries and connect them in series to make a 24V battery bank.

They are fully charged at 29.2 volts and fully discharged at 20 volts. They are made by connecting eight 3.2V LiFePO4 cells in series.

48V LiFePO4 Battery Voltage Chart

58.4V100% (charging)
54.4V100% (resting)

Here’s a printable version of the above chart:

And here it is graphed out:

48V is more popular for larger solar systems. They rarely make sense for small-scale projects.

They are fully charged at 58.4 volts and fully discharged at 40 volts. They are made by connecting 16 3.2V LiFePO4 cells in series.

3.2V LiFePO4 Cell Voltage Chart

3.65V100% (charging)
3.4V100% (resting)

Here’s a printable version of the above chart:

And here it is graphed out:

Individual LiFePO4 cells have a nominal voltage of 3.2 volts. They are fully charged at 3.65 volts and fully discharged at 2.5 volts.

You can buy individual LiFePO4 battery cells online. They’re best used for making your own lithium batteries. You can connect cells in series and parallel to make LFP batteries with your desired voltage and capacity combinations.

3 Ways to Check LiFePO4 Battery Capacity

1. Measure Battery Voltage with a Multimeter

Pros: Moderately accurate

Cons: Must disconnect all loads and chargers and let battery rest

Battery voltage changes depending on charge and discharge rates. Plus, LiFePO4 batteries have a relatively flat discharge curve from around 99% to 20% capacity. Because of these factors, it can be hard to estimate their state of charge from voltage alone.

To get an accurate estimate of battery capacity based on voltage, you first need to disconnect any loads and chargers from the battery. (Don’t forget to disconnect your solar panels from your charge controller first!)

Let the battery rest for a little while — I usually wait 15 minutes — and then measure its voltage with a multimeter.

Compare your measurement to the right voltage curve above, or the state of charge chart in your battery manual. Use it to get a rough estimate of your battery’s remaining capacity.

For example, I own the Ampere Time 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery. I wanted to check its capacity after having stored it for 3 weeks. I brought it out of storage and measured its voltage with a multimeter. I got 13.23 volts.

To get an accurate estimate of your LFP’s battery capacity based on voltage, you need to disconnect all loads and chargers from the battery and let it rest awhile before measuring its voltage.

I then compared this number to the 12V LiFePO4 state of charge chart above, as well as the one in the battery manual.

Based on the charts, I’d estimate my battery’s state of charge was somewhere around 80%.

Your LFP battery’s manual probably has a state of charge chart in it. Usually this chart is tailored to your battery, so it should take precedence over the ones above.

I like this method best for estimating the state of charge of an LFP battery I’ve just received or just pulled out of storage. The battery is already at rest and not connected to anything. I find it too inconvenient to disconnect everything once the battery is in use.

DIY lithium battery builders will also measure the voltage of used (and new) battery cells — such as LFP cells and 18650 lithium batteries — to see which are good and which are duds.

Measuring voltage is also a good way to check if a lithium battery (or any battery) is dead or not.

2. Use a Battery Monitor

Pros: Most accurate, convenient

Cons: Good battery monitors are expensive

The best way to track battery capacity is to connect a good battery monitor — such as the Victron SmartShunt or Victron BMV-712.

Battery monitors track the amount of amp hours consumed to accurately estimate the state of charge. They also display useful system specs such as battery voltage and current. Some connect via Bluetooth to your phone so you can check your LiFePO4 battery’s capacity in a mobile app.

3. Use a Solar Charge Controller

Pros: Convenient

Cons: Inaccurate

You may be thinking:

“My solar charge controller already measures battery voltage. I can just use it to check battery capacity.”


This voltage reading is inaccurate. It suffers from all of the problems mentioned above, plus it’s done while the battery is connected to loads and chargers.

(Not to mention that some charge controllers just have flat out wrong voltage readings.)

For example, recall that when I checked my battery’s voltage with a multimeter at the battery terminals, I got a voltage reading of 13.23 volts. That correlates to a roughly 80% state of charge.

But when I connected my battery to an MPPT charge controller, the controller measured 13.0 volts. That correlates to a roughly 30% state of charge — a difference of 50%! Granted, some charge controllers have much more accurate battery voltage readings than others.

I measured a battery voltage of 13.23 volts with my multimeter — roughly 80% state of charge. But the charge controller measured a battery voltage of 13.0 volts — roughly 30% state of charge. If you use your charge controller’s voltage measurement to check LiFePO4 battery capacity, you can be way off!

After all, voltage drops under load. And a charge controller is a load. If I were to connect a solar panel and start solar charging the battery, its voltage would instantly jump.

Checking battery capacity this way is convenient. But beware that it can be quite inaccurate. I generally use this voltage reading just to make sure my battery isn’t close to being fully discharged.

If you use this method and want to make sure it’s as accurate as possible, you can buy a battery voltage sensor, such as the Renogy Battery Voltage Sensor or Victron Smart Battery Sense. A voltage sensor gives the controller a more accurate voltage reading, especially in solar power systems with long wire runs.

LiFePO4 Voltage FAQ

Your battery’s manual probably has recommended charging parameters. I recommend looking to these numbers when programming your charge controller.

Note: Consult your battery’s manual for its recommended charging parameters.

What is the voltage of a fully charged 12V LiFePO4 battery?

A fully charged 12V LiFePO4 battery will have a charging voltage of around 14.6 volts and a resting voltage of around 13.6 volts.

How much can you discharge a LiFePO4 battery?

Many LiFePO4 batteries can discharge 100% of their rated capacity every time with no ill effects.

However, many manufacturers recommend discharging only 80% to maximize battery life. In fact, some brands state the cycle life of their batteries based on 80% depth of discharge (DoD).

For comparison, lead acid batteries can only discharge 50% of their rated capacity. So a 12V 100Ah LFP battery has as much usable capacity as a 12V 200Ah lead acid battery.

What is the low-voltage cutoff of a 12V LiFePO4 battery?

The low-voltage cutoff of many 12V LiFePO4 batteries is around 10 volts. The BMS should detect when the battery voltage falls below 10 volts and enter a sleep mode to protect the battery cells from over discharge.

Low-voltage cutoff is also called low-voltage disconnect, which you’ll sometimes see abbreviated LVD.

Note: Some batteries have higher cutoffs, such as 10.6V. So the limit in your battery manual may not be exactly 10V.

LFP batteries in sleep mode can have very low voltage readings, usually less than 5 volts. You may think that the battery is dead, but really it’s just sleeping.

A LiFePO4 battery reading a voltage of less than 5 volts is probably in sleep mode. Refer to your battery manual for steps on how to wake it up.

Once a battery enters sleep mode, it needs to be woken up. Refer to your battery manual for how to do this. It usually involves jump starting it with another 12V battery.

Full tutorial: How to Wake Up a Sleeping LiFePO4 Battery

What is the float voltage of a 12V LiFePO4 battery?

LiFePO4 batteries don’t need to be float charged because they don’t leak charge the way lead acid batteries do.

If you can, disable float charging on your charge controller or battery charger. If you can’t, prevent the battery from entering float charge by setting the float voltage to that recommended in the battery manual — usually 13.6 volts ± 0.2 volts.

Either disable float charging or set the float voltage to the recommended voltage in your battery manual.
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Alex Beale
Alex Beale
Hi, I'm Alex. I started Footprint Hero to help people reduce their environmental impact. My current obsession is DIY solar power projects, which I've been building since 2020.

30 thoughts on “LiFePO4 Battery Voltage Charts (12V, 24V & 48V)”

  1. Good job!
    How is your Amperetime battery holding up?
    I have two x 200AH Amperetime Plus batteries. Only two months but so far so good.

    1. I’d check your battery’s manual for its recommended settings. I’ve seen some brands recommend 30 minutes, I’ve seen some recommend 0, and in the photo above the brand recommends 120 minutes. Also, it may be helpful to know some brands call the boost stage the absorption stage.

  2. I just installed in my RV a single 300AH Ampere time battery and replaced my converter with a new lithium charge converter. Hooked it all up and let it charge overnight. This morning the battery is at 13.3v. Is that high enough to call it fully charged? What’s with the 14.3 I read about?

    1. Hi Will. How are you measuring the voltage? And do you still have loads connected to the battery? A battery’s voltage drops when connected to a load.

  3. Alex, found this page very helpful in understanding our newly installed LFP batteries, that replaced our Lead Acid batteries after 8 years of reliable use. When we thought our LFP batteries were losing too much charge too quickly, we are according to the tables provided. Well done, John

  4. My MPPT charge controller failed and my lifepo4 lithium 100ah battery now reads 3.7 volts. I keep reading that once a lithium battery is drained that low, it is very unsafe to recharge. Is this true?

    1. I’d look in your battery’s manual. I say this because there are some lifepo4 batteries (e.g Battle Born Batteries) that enter low voltage disconnect (LVD) to protect the battery from over-discharge. When they’re in LVD, they read very low voltage (something like 0-5V), and they just need to be “woken up”, usually with another 12V battery. If this is the case, the process for waking your battery up will probably be included in the manual.

      1. Agree, it happened to me (LVD) and I simply connected my 12v portable car jumper battery box to the “dead” Battleborn battery for a bit. I forget what I had to bring the voltage up to as a minimum before all was normal, but it was not much or a long time.

  5. Alex
    Nice job on solar systems advice. There don’t seem to be many folks doing this. I am newly exploring this topic for residential energy storage and backup point of view. Not signing up for hoards of solar panels…yet. Would like to store energy to cover power outage. Am wondering about using 12 volt vs 48 volt batteries. 12 volt units are very common… is it a scale issue? I.e. most of us are either recreational or 3kw or less so 12 volt systems are sweet spot for value?

    1. Thanks Brian. Yeah I think it’s pretty much what you said — 12v and 24v batteries are the sweet spot for a lot of small-scale / recreational solar power systems. Of course, if you’re building an off-grid system or something or similar scale, it may make sense to use a 48v battery bank.

  6. Hi there, thanks for the article! So my 100ah 12v lifepo4 battery says the “charged voltage” is 14.6v and nominal is 12.8v. But doesn’t say what charging voltage I should use, what would you recommend for setting the charging voltage? I have a Victron smartsolar 100|20 mppt charging it at the moment.


    1. Hey Matthew, I’ve never had to set a “charging voltage” before…you mean a bulk or absorption voltage? Your Victron should already have a preset charging profile for your battery that you could use.

      1. My 200Ah LiFeP04 battery has discharged to 11.5v when shown on Bluetooth BMS screen. It is not accepting charge and I suspect the BMS is asleep.
        Will a jump start from a 12 v battery reset it or should I open the battery and disconnect the BMS then reconnect?

        1. Check the battery manual. It should have instructions for ‘waking up’ the battery if it has gone into sleep mode. Usually it involves a jump start from another 12V battery.

  7. I believe the manual says that the “Charge Voltage is 14.6V” and later “User 14.6V lithium charger” and “Recommended Charging Voltage: Between 14.2V to 14.6V”. I set my Solar controller to the setting in the manual (the page in your photo). But it does not charge at 14.6 volts. Charging limit is not charging voltage. It is the upper limit the Controller will allow before calling a fault(I understand this is common practice). My other controller (both Epevers) never went more than tenth of a volt above the float charge while in float,(majority of the time) and same for Boost and Equalization stages, while charging my lead acid batteries. So I am not sure how it will ever get to 14.6 unless I set one of those stages to 14.6.

    1. Your solar charger will put out 14.6 but you will not see it till the battery is charged as you will see battery volt plus charge volt influence. As the battery charges a higher volt will be see until 14.6v is achieved then the controller will go into float mode. float needs to be set low or turned off if possible.

  8. Thanks for the resting voltages at various levels of charge. That is useful info. I’m soon going to upgrade my mobility scooter from AGM to LiFePo4 batteries.

    I will need to reprogram my scooter’s onboard controller/computer to voltage figures for LiFePo4 batteries so the scooter’s dashboard charge meter (based on voltage) will be accurate. By accurate, I mean to extent possible.

    Currently it’s programmed for AGM batteries. Using your chart gives me a general idea of what I need to reprogram it for. Though when the time comes, I’ll use the voltage chart from whatever brand batteries I get.

    Thanks for your info!

  9. Hello Alex
    Can you tell me what a minimum charge rate for LiFePO4 would be? Usually datasheets specify a constant current of .5C (a recommendation). With PV systems, the output from an inverter charger could vary appreciably hence the current presented to the battery would fall (sudden cloud cover etc). Hardly constant current but does this really worry the battery?

    1. Hey Stephen, there is no minimum charge rate for LiFePO4 batteries. The reason being exactly what you said — in PV systems, output is always changing and can drop to zero during cloudy, rainy days (not to mention nighttime!). The 0.5C recommendation is the maximum charge rate.

  10. G’day Alex, Great info on this page, thanks.
    I have been chasing an answer to an issue I have with battery voltage spiking up to 27V on a 12 volt battery when connected to the S.C.C. but not charging because it is fully charged.
    I have spent probably 100 hours reading and asking questions on this, but so far no resolution.
    If you have the time & the inclination, please email me 🙂

    1. Hey Phill. Hmm…where is the 27V reading coming from? The charge controller’s battery voltage screen or a multimeter at the battery terminals? If you’re getting that number from the charge controller, your controller may be damaged. If it’s coming from a multimeter at the terminals, then I’m not sure what could be causing a voltage spike like that on a 12V battery.

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